Steens Mountain

Steens Mountain, rising from the remote Harney Basin of southeastern Oregon in one of the most sparsely populated regions of the American West, is a dramatic fault-block mountain — a tilted block of basalt 30 miles long that slopes gently westward toward the high-desert sagebrush of the Harney Basin and drops precipitously on its eastern face nearly 5,000 feet in a single escarpment to the Alvord Desert playa below, one of the most dramatic fault scarps in the Pacific Northwest.

At 9,738 feet, Steens Mountain is the highest point in southeastern Oregon and the highest point reachable by a maintained road in the state — the Steens Mountain Loop Road (the highest road in Oregon, reaching 9,700 feet at the East Rim viewpoint) provides access to the alpine summit ridge, four enormous glacially carved gorges (the Kiger, Little Blitzen, Blitzen, and Big Indian gorges), vast fields of high alpine wildflowers, and a panoramic view from the East Rim that encompasses the Alvord Desert playa, the Sheepshead Mountains, and on clear days, the distant Nevada ranges — a wild and remote high-desert landscape unlike anything else in Oregon.

Summer (July through early September) is the only practical season for the Steens Mountain Loop Road — the road is typically snow-free from early July through September (the road is closed by snow from October through June or later, depending on snowpack; check BLM for current road status). The wildflower peak on the alpine plateau (late July through early August) is extraordinary — the vast wet meadows on the western slopes bloom with phlox, paintbrush, larkspur, and blue camas in a sweep of color across the high-alpine plateau. The East Rim viewpoint at sunset (looking down 5,000 feet to the Alvord Desert as it glows white in the late light) is one of the finest landscape views in the American West. Come prepared for all weather — even in summer, the summit ridge can experience wind, rain, and cold temperatures (35-50°F at the summit in July, with gusts exceeding 50 mph).

Steens Mountain has been central to the culture of the Northern Paiute people for thousands of years — the mountain’s high plateau provided summer hunting and gathering grounds (deer, bighorn sheep, biscuitroot, and camas), and the lower slopes and the Blitzen River valley supported year-round camps. The first European-American exploration of the mountain was by Peter Skene Ogden of the Hudson’s Bay Company (1826), who traveled through the Harney Basin; the mountain was named for Major Enoch Steen, a U.S. Army officer who led expeditions in the region in the 1860s. The Harney Basin was the scene of the 1878 Bannock War — the final conflict between the Northern Paiute and the U.S. Army in the region. Steens Mountain became a major cattle ranching landscape in the late 19th century (the high meadows supported large herds of cattle and sheep); overgrazing severely damaged the native bunchgrass communities, which are now partially recovering under BLM management. The Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Area was established by Congress in 2000.

Steens Mountain is a classic Basin and Range fault-block mountain — a massive, tilted block of Columbia River Basalt (erupted approximately 15 million years ago) that was uplifted along normal faults on the eastern margin of the block and tilted westward during the extensional tectonics of the Basin and Range Province. The eastern face is a dramatic fault scarp dropping nearly 5,000 feet to the Alvord Desert graben below; the western face is a long, gentle dip slope. The mountain’s high plateau (above 7,000 feet) was heavily glaciated during the Pleistocene; four major valley glaciers carved the spectacular gorges (Kiger, Little Blitzen, Blitzen, and Big Indian gorges) — U-shaped valleys 2,000 feet deep that are among the finest examples of alpine glacial sculpture in the Basin and Range. The summit ridge preserves the original Columbia River Basalt surface. The fault-block uplift, the Columbia River Basalt, and the Pleistocene glaciation created Steens Mountain’s extraordinary form.

Steens Mountain’s alpine plateau and glacial gorge ecosystem supports a diverse and spectacular wildlife community — Kiger mustangs (the Kiger herd, one of the most genetically pure Spanish mustang bloodlines surviving in the American West, roams the western slopes and is regularly visible from the Loop Road; the Kiger and Riddle Mountain mustang herds are managed by BLM as living symbols of the West), pronghorn (abundant on the sagebrush slopes), mule deer, bighorn sheep (reintroduced on the eastern escarpment), greater sage-grouse (one of the finest sage-grouse populations remaining in Oregon, lekking in the sagebrush around the mountain’s base), golden eagles (soaring along the East Rim escarpment), prairie falcons, ferruginous hawks, and the extraordinary shorebird and waterfowl concentrations of Malheur NWR (directly west of the mountain). The Kiger mustangs are the most celebrated wildlife encounter.

Steens Mountain’s ecological zones span from the salt-desert shrubland of the Alvord Desert at the foot of the eastern escarpment (3,600 feet) through sagebrush steppe, aspen groves in the glacial gorge margins, wet mountain meadows (the alpine plateau meadows, fed by snowmelt, are among the finest mountain meadows in the Great Basin), and the wind-swept alpine plateau. The mountain sits at the heart of the Harney Basin wetland complex — the Blitzen River drains the mountain’s western slopes into the Malheur and Harney lakes, which are the center of Malheur NWR. The native bunchgrass prairie (Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass) on the mountain’s slopes is recovering from historical overgrazing but remains vulnerable. The Kiger Gorge wild horse area and the sage-grouse lekking grounds are the primary conservation-dependent wildlife habitats.

Steens Mountain holds a treasured place among the wild and remote landscapes of the American West — one of the most dramatic fault-block mountains in the Great Basin, Oregon’s highest road-accessible summit, the home of the legendary Kiger mustangs (the most genetically pure Spanish colonial horse lineage surviving in the West), a landscape of extraordinary geological drama (the 5,000-foot eastern escarpment plunging to the Alvord Desert is one of the most spectacular views in the American West), and a gateway to one of the most remote and wild corners of the lower 48 states. For those willing to make the journey to Oregon’s far southeast corner, Steens Mountain is a revelation — a vast, wild, sky-dominated landscape of quiet power and geological grandeur.

Steens Mountain is in Harney County, southeastern Oregon, approximately 60 miles south of Burns on Oregon Route 205. The Steens Mountain Loop Road begins at Frenchglen (a tiny historic settlement with the historic Frenchglen Hotel — the only commercial lodging on the mountain) and loops 66 miles over the mountain, returning to OR-205 south of Frenchglen. The road is typically open July through September (check BLM for current status; the upper road can snow in any month); a high-clearance vehicle (2WD is often sufficient in dry conditions; 4WD recommended for the full loop) is required. Burns (60 miles north) has full services; Frenchglen has the hotel (reservations recommended in summer) and a small store. Cell service is essentially nonexistent on the mountain. Check BLM Oregon for current road conditions, camping availability, and Kiger mustang viewing locations.

The Bureau of Land Management manages Steens Mountain under the Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Area Act (2000), which prohibits new road construction, vehicle grazing, and off-road vehicle use on the mountain to protect its wild character. The Kiger mustang herd is managed for genetic purity and population sustainability; BLM conducts periodic gathers to maintain the herd at the appropriate management level (the management target is 51-121 horses). The greater sage-grouse is the primary candidate-for-listing species on the mountain; protecting sage-grouse lek (breeding ground) habitats from disturbance and invasive annual grass (cheatgrass) encroachment is a management priority. The wilderness gorges (Kiger, Little Blitzen, Blitzen, and Big Indian) are federally designated wilderness; respect wilderness rules (no motorized vehicles or bicycles).

Steens Mountain is extremely remote (the nearest hospital is in Burns, 60 miles north; no cell service on the mountain; the road can deteriorate rapidly in rain or snow). Carry sufficient fuel (there is no fuel on the mountain; Burns or Fields are the fuel stops), extra water, food, and emergency gear. The summit ridge is exposed to extreme winds and cold even in summer (temperatures can drop to near freezing at the summit in any month; afternoon thunderstorms develop rapidly; be off the exposed summit ridge by early afternoon). The Loop Road is a rough dirt road; sharp rocks can cause flats (carry a repair kit and a full-size spare). The East Rim is a cliff edge — the eastern escarpment drops 5,000 feet; maintain safe distances from the rim at all times, especially with children.

No entrance fee (Steens Mountain is BLM public land). The Kiger mustang management area: view horses from the road; do not approach or attempt to interact with wild mustangs (approaching is illegal and dangerous). Wilderness areas (the four gorges) require wilderness rules: no motorized vehicles, no bicycles, no campfires in certain zones (check BLM for fire restrictions). Camping is permitted at designated campgrounds on the Loop Road (Page Springs Campground, Fish Lake Campground, Jackman Park Campground, Mann Lake) and at dispersed sites (check BLM for current rules). OHV use is prohibited on Steens Mountain. Check BLM for current road conditions, fire restrictions, and wild horse viewing locations before visiting.

Malheur National Wildlife Refuge (directly west of the mountain — one of the premier birding sites in the American West, with extraordinary concentrations of migrating and nesting waterfowl and shorebirds; the refuge headquarters and visitor center are at the old historic Malheur Field Station complex), the Alvord Desert (directly east of the eastern escarpment — the dry lakebed is one of the finest natural flats in the West; accessible from Fields, Oregon), the town of Burns (60 miles north — the service hub of Harney County), Frenchglen (the mountain gateway, with the historic Frenchglen Hotel), and the Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Area (40 miles northeast — a remarkable recent basaltic volcanic landscape) define the remote region. Steens Mountain is the centerpiece of Oregon’s “high desert” experience and is best experienced as part of a 2-3 day Harney Basin loop from Burns.

Drive the Steens Mountain Loop Road counterclockwise (begin from Frenchglen on the east side of the loop, climbing to the summit ridge and East Rim viewpoint, then descending the western face through the glacial gorge overlooks) to see the most dramatic landscape elements in the optimal sequence — the East Rim viewpoint at 9,700 feet, looking 5,000 feet straight down to the Alvord Desert playa with Nevada visible in the distance, is the summit of the experience. Arrive at the East Rim viewpoint at sunset for the finest light on the Alvord Desert playa below. Watch for the Kiger mustangs on the western slopes between the Kiger Gorge overlook and the Jackman Park area — the BLM Steens Mountain visitor contact station in Frenchglen can provide the current mustang herd location. The Frenchglen Hotel (reserve months in advance for summer) is the finest way to experience the mountain over two full days.