Medicine Bow Peak

The Snowy Range Scenic Byway (WY-130) is typically open from Memorial Day weekend (late May) through late October, depending on snow. The finest hiking season for Medicine Bow Peak is mid-July through early September — by mid-July the quartzite ridge is typically snow-free and the alpine wildflowers (sky pilot, alpine forget-me-not, alpine avens) are at their peak in the bowl below the summit; the weather is at its most stable (though afternoon thunderstorms can develop rapidly above treeline and must be respected — be off the summit ridge by noon); and the Snowy Range lakes are clear of ice and at their most beautiful. Early July can bring residual snowfields on the north-facing slopes. Fall (September) is extraordinary — the aspen groves on the Medicine Bow National Forest slopes turn gold, the crowds thin dramatically, the weather is often clearer than summer, and the summit view is at its sharpest. Winter brings world-class powder-snow conditions to Snowy Range Ski Area and excellent backcountry skiing on the byway corridor (closed to vehicles but open to skiers and snowshoers).

The Medicine Bow Mountains take their name from the Arapaho and other Plains Indian peoples’ use of the mountain’s forests for the raw materials of bows — the straight-grained, dense wood of the mountain’s timber was prized for bow-making, and the mountain was a gathering and trading place for bow-making material (the Arapaho word for the location translates roughly as “good wood for making bows”; Anglo-American settlers transliterated this as “Medicine Bow”). The Union Pacific Transcontinental Railroad (completed 1869) passed through southern Wyoming and spurred the development of Laramie as the primary city of southern Wyoming, with the Medicine Bow Range providing timber for the railroad and the region. The Medicine Bow National Forest was established in 1902. The Snowy Range Scenic Byway was developed as a Forest Service road in the 1920s-1930s; the CCC camps in the national forest built many of the facilities (picnic areas, lake access roads) that exist today.

Medicine Bow Peak’s geology is defined by the Snowy Range Quartzite — the brilliant white to pale pink metamorphic quartzite (originally a Precambrian beach sand, approximately 2.5-2.7 billion years old, metamorphosed to quartzite during the Precambrian mountain-building events) that caps the Medicine Bow Range crests and gives the Snowy Range its name (the white quartzite outcrops are visible for 50+ miles from the Laramie Basin and resemble snowfields even in mid-summer). The quartzite is extremely resistant to erosion, forming the highest peaks and ridges while the surrounding less-resistant basement rocks have been eroded to lower elevations. The glacial history of the Snowy Range is well-preserved — the glaciers of the last Ice Age (Pleistocene) carved the lake basins (Lake Marie and the other Snowy Range lakes are all glacially formed) into the quartzite and surrounding Precambrian gneiss and schist, leaving the classic glacial-cirque landscape visible today.

The Snowy Range and Medicine Bow Peak’s alpine and subalpine habitats support a rich Rocky Mountain high-country wildlife community. American pika inhabit the quartzite boulder fields on the approach to and around the summit — their distinctive high-pitched bark is one of the defining sounds of the Snowy Range alpine zone. Yellow-bellied marmots sun on the summit rocks. White-tailed ptarmigan (the all-white alpine grouse) inhabit the alpine tundra and boulder fields above treeline. Moose (one of the finest moose concentrations in Wyoming) are abundant in the willow meadows and beaver ponds of the valleys below the Snowy Range — the Medicine Bow River drainage to the west is one of the finest moose-viewing areas in the state; moose are frequently visible from the byway pull-offs. Elk, mule deer, and pronghorn antelope inhabit the subalpine and montane zones. Black bears are present but rarely seen.

Medicine Bow Peak’s alpine and subalpine ecosystems are among the most accessible high-alpine ecosystems in Wyoming for visitors. The alpine tundra community above treeline (above approximately 10,500 feet on the Snowy Range) is dominated by alpine fell-field species — cushion plants, sedge tussocks, and low-growing wildflowers that have adapted to the extreme growing conditions of the summit zone (intense UV radiation, desiccating winds, a growing season of 6-8 weeks, and annual temperatures that average below freezing). The treeline ecotone on the Snowy Range is a classic Engelmann spruce-subalpine fir krummholz belt — the trees grow in sculpted, wind-pruned mats at the treeline, providing cover for wildlife and modeling the extreme wind and cold of the site. Stay on the quartzite trail above treeline to protect the alpine tundra; cushion plants grow 1 millimeter per year and are destroyed by a single footfall.

Medicine Bow Peak and the Snowy Range hold a special place in the outdoor culture of southern Wyoming and the Laramie region — the accessible high-alpine terrain (the Snowy Range Scenic Byway crests at nearly 11,000 feet, putting visitors in the alpine zone without leaving their cars), the extraordinary Snowy Range lakes, the world-record white-quartzite formations, and the panoramic summit views combine to create one of Wyoming’s finest and most beloved alpine destinations. For Laramie residents and University of Wyoming students, the Snowy Range is the backyard wilderness. For travelers on I-80, the byway is one of the finest high-alpine scenic drives in the American West. Medicine Bow Peak, as the range’s highest point, is the summit that gives the Snowy Range its meaning.

Medicine Bow Peak is accessed from the Lake Marie trailhead on the Snowy Range Scenic Byway (WY-130). From Laramie (Wyoming), drive west on WY-130 approximately 45 miles to the Snowy Range Pass area; the Lake Marie parking area is at the pass on the north side of the road, immediately below the prominent white quartzite crests of the Snowy Range. The byway is typically open from Memorial Day weekend (late May) through late October (closing dates vary with snowfall; check the Medicine Bow-Routt NF for current byway status). A trailhead fee or parking pass may be required (check USFS for current requirements). Laramie (45 miles east) has full services. The Snowy Range Ski Area is adjacent to the byway (4 miles west of the pass). Check USFS for current trail conditions and byway status before visiting.

The Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest manages Medicine Bow Peak and the Snowy Range. The alpine tundra above treeline is the most fragile ecosystem on the mountain; stay on the designated quartzite trail at all times above treeline (the cushion plants and alpine sedges are irreplaceable on any human timescale; a single step off the trail can kill plants that took 50+ years to grow). The Snowy Range lakes are pristine high-alpine water bodies; no soap or detergents in or near any lake; camp 200+ feet from all water sources. Fishing in the Snowy Range lakes requires a Wyoming fishing license. Leave No Trace principles are required on all Medicine Bow NF trails. Pack out all trash; the trailhead parking areas have waste facilities.

Medicine Bow Peak’s greatest hazard is afternoon lightning — the Snowy Range (as the highest terrain in the region, rising abruptly from the surrounding forest) generates and attracts intense afternoon thunderstorms; be on the summit and beginning your descent by 11 AM to be safely below treeline before any afternoon storms develop. The quartzite summit ridge is fully exposed and there is no shelter above treeline; if you see lightning or hear thunder, descend immediately at maximum speed. The trail above treeline crosses wet, polished quartzite surfaces that can be very slippery when wet (wet quartzite polish is nearly as slippery as wet ice); wear boots with good grip. Altitude sickness at 12,013 feet can affect visitors arriving from low elevation; acclimatize in Laramie (7,165 feet) for at least one full day before the summit attempt. Carry warm layers and rain gear regardless of morning weather.

USFS trailhead fee or parking pass may be required (check Medicine Bow-Routt NF for current requirements). Stay on designated trail above treeline. Wyoming fishing license required for all fishing in the Snowy Range lakes. No camping within 200 feet of any water source or trail. Campfire restrictions apply (check current USFS fire restrictions). No motorized vehicles on hiking trails. Pets on leash. Pack out all trash. Snowy Range Scenic Byway (WY-130) is closed in winter (typically November through Memorial Day weekend, weather-dependent); check USFS or WYDOT for current byway status before planning any spring or fall visit.

Laramie, Wyoming (45 miles east via WY-130 — University of Wyoming’s home city, with the UW Geological Museum, the Ames Monument near Sherman — a massive granite pyramid commemorating the railroad builders — and a lively college-town character), Snowy Range Ski Area (4 miles west of the pass on WY-130 — a family-oriented ski resort with 27 trails and excellent Wyoming powder), Vedauwoo (35 miles northeast of Laramie — the bizarre granite formations of the Medicine Bow NF, a premier climbing destination), the North Platte River (to the west — excellent brown-trout fishing in the Saratoga, Wyoming area — “Old Faithful of Wyoming Fishing”), and the town of Saratoga, Wyoming (60 miles west — a charming resort town with the Hobo Hot Springs — a free, 24-hour public hot-spring soaking pool on the banks of the North Platte River) define the region. Medicine Bow Peak anchors the finest alpine experience in southern Wyoming.

Start the Medicine Bow Peak summit hike at 6 AM to reach the quartzite summit by 8:30-9 AM and begin your descent by 10 AM, putting you safely below treeline before the afternoon thunderstorm window opens at noon. The sunrise from the summit — with the Great Plains of Colorado glowing pink to the east and the Snowy Range lakes turning silver below — is one of the finest alpine sunrises in Wyoming. After descending, drive the full Snowy Range Scenic Byway from the pass east to Laramie, stopping at every lake overlook (Mirror Lake, Lake Hattie, Lake Marie from below, the Sugarloaf picnic area) for the full Snowy Range experience. If visiting in fall (mid-September), the aspen groves in the medicine bow NF valley below the pass turn brilliant gold — the combination of gold aspens, white quartzite crests, and deep-blue September sky is extraordinary. Visit the Hobo Hot Springs in Saratoga after the hike for a restorative soak in the free natural mineral spring on the North Platte River.